Old Arbat Street, Moscow

We arrived Moscow late Thursday evening, August 14^th.  Given the speed with which we arranged this trip for Kunduz’ wedding, we had only enough time to obtain an expedited 72 hour transit visa for Russia.   Jim and I want to make the most of our three nights and two days here, but that first night all we had energy for was an evening stroll before bed.  By luck, we booked a fantastic hotel.  It's the Mercure Arbat, and is located in the historic central part of Moscow at one end of Old Arbat street (at Smolenskaya Square).  

Old Arbat street has quite a history.  Dating back to the 15^th century, it may be one of the oldest surviving streets outside of the Kremlin.  It has a famous past:  Russian nobility had their homes there.  And, it has an infamous past:  When Ivan the Terrible established Russia’s first secret police (the forerunner to today’s KGB), their headquarters were located on Arbat street.  Many a family feared the release of the day’s orders issued from here for interrogations or killings of people suspected of treason.  

Nowadays, Old Arbat is approximately a one kilometer pedestrian-only street.  Around ten

o’clock that first night, the patios of restaurants and cafes are filled.  Since it is August, it is harvest time.  Thus, there were seasonal booths set up to sell jams, honey, fruits and vegetables.

People walked arm and arm in both directions.  Individual street musicians, including an old woman on crutches playing a balalaika, performed for small groups of listeners.  Portrait artists or caricaturists call out to passers-by – and even one tattoo artist (although I never saw a person sit down on his chair!)  One woman had a cat on a box – and as far as Jim and I could tell, people were paying money to pet the cat! 

Jim and I walk to the end of Old Arbat, turn around, and walk back slowly back to our hotel. A beautiful night.  A great introduction to Moscow.

Saying our good-byes ...

Our last morning in Bishkek, Anara took us to the local bazaar.   Jim and I were on the hunt for souvenirs.  In particular, we were looking for a shyrdak to take home. Shyrdaks are stitched, felt carpets, traditionally made by women.  Legend has it that each one contains the wool from five sheep.  Success!  We bought one for each of our kids – and then Anara presented us with a beautiful one for our home.  As I hope you can tell, we have been showered with kindness and blessings.

 

Similar to any bazaar, I could spend hours wandering and watching people.  For instance, I loved this woman with her scarves.  

Jim had been to this same bazaar earlier in the week with Kunduz’ uncle, shopping for fresh fruit.  It’s the time of melons.  I don’t know the name of this melon, but it is like a honeydew – only much larger – as you can see! 

After shopping, we ate our final lunch (of multiple courses!) with Anara, Rysbek and Jyldyz.  More toasts were made, each with a hope for more opportunities to see each other.  It was an emotional lunch, as none of us know whether or when we will see each other again. 

I should tell you how our family paths crossed in the first place.  Jim and I met Kunduz in China in 2008 when we were leading a CSB/SJU study abroad to Southwest University in Beibei.  She was 18, there alone, participating in a full year Chinese-language immersion program with the intention of enrolling the next year for her undergraduate degree.  (She already spoke Kyrgyz, Russian, English, and Japanese fluently.)  Kunduz met some of our students; they became friends, and so did we.  Jim started encouraging Kunduz to come to St. Ben’s for her undergraduate degree.  She had never considered the US as a possibility.  When she did, she got some full scholarship offers.  She chose to attend Miami of Ohio, but while she was in the States, she would come to our home for Thanksgiving or other breaks.   We grew very close.   In 2010, Jim and I traveled to Kyrgyzstan, and met all of her extended family.  (If interested, see our blog at jcturkeykyrgyz.blogspot.com.)  In particular, read about the lamb ceremony, where Jim and Rysbek shared an eyeball of a sheep as part of a ritual connecting our two families together for our lifetimes. 

Over their lunchbreaks, Kunduz and Khanchoro came to take us to the airport.  (We were thankful that we had also been able to have a quiet dinner with just the two of them the evening before.)  Many hugs – and couple of cognac bottles placed in our hands later - we depart.  As I lean back into my airplane seat en route to Moscow, I marvel, “Did all that happen in only five days?”  And, paraphrasing one of my friends, this trip again reminds me that whatever we read in the news about other countries around the world, we should all remember that behind those stories are someone’s loved ones.  In particular, remember our extended family in Kyrgyzstan.

Jim goes golfing

On Wednesday, Jim and I are brought back to Bishkek – and Jim was met with another treat.  

Bakyt had arranged for a round of golf --- at the only golf course in Kyrgyzstan!  In fact, this was the first golf course in all of Central Asia.  It was created by a man from Calgary, Canada named Ed.  Ed basically created the course so that he could golf himself – but also hoped to bring in some income.  In talking with him, Ed did say that this summer hurt.  With the American base in Bishkek closing, the golf course income has dropped 45%.  

We go on the honeymoon

On Monday, August 11^th, the day after the wedding, Kunduz and Khanchoro go back to work!  Meanwhile, Jim and I are treated to two nights at a new eco-resort about 45 minutes outside of Bishkek.  Kunduz’ twin sisters, Anara and Chinara, and brother-in-law Bakyt bring us out there and stay into the evening.

Newly opened, the place is Supara – and we highly recommend it for anyone going to Bishkek!  It is higher into the mountains, just inside the tree line.  The air is fresh and cool – a welcome relief from the August heat.  Supara’s owners are building it consistent with traditional Kyrgyz styling, while meeting international standards (e.g. Wi-Fi access, modern toilets and showers).  The lodgings primarily consist of yurtas.  The fantastic food is based on traditional Kyrgyz recipes.  They have horses for riding, trails to hike, and hammocks to read in. 

By happenstance, the owners have a professional photographer there taking pictures for their new website.  A huge bonfire is lit, and we all engage in two intercultural traditions.  First, there is a Russian saying that if you jump over a burning fire, the fire will burn away regrets from your life.  So, here is one person who is now “regret-free.” 

The second is an American tradition: camp songs!  Here I am leading people in “ring around the rosy.”  They enthusiastically go along, including the “all fall down” part.

They also have a professional model enacting a traditional wedding that could take place there.  Jim quickly hones in, and soon steals her away – the cad!

  

We had a wonderful time at Supara, but couldn’t help feel a tad guilty.  It would have been nicer if Kunduz and Khanchoro could have had those two days as their honeymoon instead.